Bulkhead Restoration
3 ECR restored bulkheads

PLEASE NOTE: We now only work on NAS DEFENDERS. These pages from back in the day are left on line for your viewing enjoyment only.

An all too common problem with Series Land Rovers is rust. These days with most Series Rovers being well over 30 years old it is nearly impossible to find one that doesn't have rust. If it isn't rusty it likely has had some very poor repairs done over the last 3 decades. The good news is that you can solve your rusty frame issues by installing a new galvanized chassis, and new doors can be purchased from Land-Rover, but what about the bulkhead (or firewall)? Land Rover no longer offers these pieces. Fortunately ECR can help. We offer a full rebuild/ restoration service for Series II, IIA, III and Defender bulkheads. On a Defender bulkheads it is typically simpler to start with a new bulkhead, as these pieces are still available, but in the case of a Series II or IIA we must repair the old unit. In some rare cases you can still locate a NOS (New Old Stock) Series III bulkhead, and this is by far the best way to go... if you can locate one. If you can't, we can rebuild your Series II/IIA or III bulkhead. We can save nearly any bulkhead from the clutches of rust and make your project look great, and even better, we can make it bolt together correctly with no body alignment or door fitting issues (as our bulkheads are all jig built) and we can treat your bulkhead with better rust preventative measures than the factory did and make it last a long long time. So in fact, an ECR bulkhead is a longer lasting piece than a factory original!
We can also modify your bulkhead so that it fits a Rover V8, or any other modification you have in mind.
Let us know if we can help get your bulkhead back into shape.

The images below document once such bulkhead restoration we did for a customer in CA.

The image above shows that we have gone over the problem areas of this SIIA bulkhead with the media blaster to locate all the rust. This bulkhead has some very troublesome rust in the upper sections, as well as holes in the floors and kick panels. We've installed it in our unique bulkhead jig and have started to cut away the rusted areas. You can see that the LH footwell and door post have been removed, and that the upper hinge section has also been removed.

Media blasting on the face of the bulkhead turned up holes (large and small) in both floor sections, and rust is rust, so everything goes. If you leave even a little rust it will come back soon. We'll be cutting this entire section away as well.

Footwells and doorpost are easy to repair, and the ECR bulkhead jig makes quick work of them, but in this bulkhead's case we have some very serious rust damage high in the door post, and along the upper sections of the bulkhead. After sand blasting these areas become very clear. The only solution: cut it all out and fabricate, by hand, new panels to repair these area with new steel. This bulkhead was caught just in time, as few more years and not even ECR could have saved this one.

The LH side had the same rust as you see in the photos above that show the RH side. In this image you can see that the problem areas have been cut away, and that we are back to good quality steel that we have media blasted back to white metal, now we will begin making the patch panels and getting this side of the bulkhead back in shape. If you ever wanted to know what the inside of a bulkhead looked like, here you go. As you can see we needed to remove the hinge area completely as well as the windscreen mount in order to get rid of the rust.

Here you can see that the LH upper hinge area has been fully restored to what it should be by the fabricators at ECR. The windscreen hinge mount has been put back on and the new door post put in place. We still need to install the correct lip for the door seal and then we'll move to the RH side of the bulkhead.You can also see very clearly in this image that we do not use any "bondo" or body filler of any kind. This bulkhead is all steel, just as the factory intended. We also use a heavier gauge steel for longer life, and once the repairs are done, we'll put this bulkhead through our "dunk tank" so that the inside of the bulkhead gets treated so rust won't come back. All this work is done with the bulkhead in our jig so that an exact fit to the frame and to the body is assured.

The footwell and top section have also now been replaced, all using the correct spot welding techniques. The repair panels we use are heavy gauge and galvanized so that rust will not be factor down the line. The repair panels also have all the correct holes and markings so that once the bulkhead is done it will look factory original. Yes, this type of hand fabrication work is very costly and takes a long time, and people who can do this type of work are few and far between. Fortunately, the fabricators at ECR can easily handle this type of repair and because we do bulkheads all the time, we are cheaper than having this work done by someone doing it for the first time and the quality speaks for itself. When completed this bulkhead will last another 30 plus years.

Here you can see that we have moved to the RH side and have started to cut away all the rusty areas. The foot, door post and under section all had rust so they have been removed. This side also suffered from rust in the upper hinge area so that material has been cut away as well.

In these images you can see that a lot of the upper section had to be removed to get back to good steel. The inner structure is still in good shape, so after we fabricate the repair panels and install them this bulkhead will be better than new.

In this image you can see the new floor panels on the RH side have been installed. Notice that the floors have the correct stamping in them for a factory look and also notice that they are lightly galvanized for long life.

Here you can see the upper hinge structure on the RH side. All the rust has been removed and new panels fabricated and tig welded in place. Next we will add the door seal edge and cut the holes for the door hinge bolts and capture nuts. The next step after that will be to cut the openings for the heater and then running the bulkhead through the dunk tank, then sandblasting it back to white metal (meaning zero rust).

This image shows the freshly sandblasted bulkhead hanging in our paint bay, as you can see there is ZERO rust. All the surfaces will be wiped down and then we will give the bulkhead a number of coasts of PPG corrosion resistant epoxy primer, and then a number of coats of the correct color Red for a Late Series IIA Land Rover.

Here you can see the nearly finished product, shot in the correct Red for a Late Series IIA with all surfaces coated with epoxy primer and numerous coats of paint. We still need to install the freshly painted steering blank off plate and then we'll get it ready for shipping back to CA where the owner plans to continue the rebuild of his Series IIA 88.

Remember just how bad this bulkhead looked in the pictures at the top of this page?? Well it has now been transformed into something that just doesn't exist: a perfect, rust free, almost brand new Series IIA bulkhead. Notice that the factory welds show where they are supposed to and are hidden where they are supposed to be hidden. Also notice that we have installed the correct lip on the back of the door post to allow for the door seal. None of the reproduction door posts come with this part and we made the tool to make that piece part of our bulkheads.
Some of the attention to detail that sets ECR apart from any other Rover shop are things like you see in the following images:

After painting we install the correct "rivnuts" so that your dash parts can screw back in correctly. You can see them as the small gold fixtures in this photo. New rivnuts are also installed for the starter relay, as this is a Late SIIA bulkhead.

The vent flaps are painted separately, and then installed with new pins. The tape is to hold the pins in place as the customer will likely need to remove the vent flaps to install new seals an/or hook up his vent flap levers.

The RH steering cover plate is also painted separately (as the factory would have done it) and then installed with the correct hammer rivets.

We then crate the bulkhead for shipping back across the country. You can also see that we correctly painted and installed the clutch flex line adaptor (the small black bracket on the RH footwell).

But we don't just toss your restored bulkhead into a box with bubble wrap and hope it gets back to CA undamaged. In the images above you can see that we fabricated brackets that use the windscreen mount and the bulkhead foot to suspend the bulkhead inside the box so that no surface of the bulkhead is touching any surface of the box. The bulkhead will arrive undamaged and looking like you stepped back in time and bought one in at the factory in 1969. Is this level of service and attention to detail cheap? By no means, but if you truly desire the best for your Land Rover, contact ECR.
Correct in every detail, rust free and built in a jig to assure a perfect fit to the chassis and correct fit of the doors.
Not even the most critical eye will ever be able to tell that this is not an original bulkhead, and that is because our eyes are more critical than anyone else's in the business.
Contact ECR if you need bulkhead work and want it done right.

To see other ECR bulkhead work see our Restored Rovers Section,
and go here for another mail order SIIA bulkhead repair, this one goes to FL.
Here is another bulkhead for a customer's 109 in Cape Cod, MA.
Here you can see yet another mail order bulkhead .
How about one more for a customer in NC, go here.
Another for a NY customer is located here.
How about a Series III bulkhead? Go here.
Another SIIA bulkhead is here, and yet other for SIIA bulkhead for a customer in MA is here.
How about a Series III bulkhead for SC, see that one here.
Here is a Series II bulkhead for another SC customer, go here for that one.

Two more ECR jig built Series III bulkheads ready for blasting, prime and paint.

Ready to ship your bulkhead to ECR for repairs?
Read this page first, Go here.

Back to the Series Rover Section